Ten days. 700 km. 4,500 m of climbing. Weather that never sits still.
Iceland isn't where you start bikepacking. It's where you test everything you know. More sheep than cars. Glaciers, lava fields, black sand and waterfalls around every bend. Every view is earned: against Atlantic wind on the coast, over loose gravel and through unbridged glacial rivers in the Highlands.
Late summer. Clara Normand and Alexe, two former elite triathletes who had raced across the world without ever really seeing it. This time, no clock. A loop through the south, ridden at the pace of the landscape.
Alexe has logged more nights on a loaded bike than most. Out here, she knows, clothing is your shelter, your thermostat and your comfort. Ten days, no backup. This is the route, and the kit that made it possible.
The South Coast: wind is the climb
3 days · 300 km · 1,550 m of climbing
Out of Keflavík, the world turns strange fast. Black volcanic rock. Green volcanoes. Space in every direction. The road traces the coast east, past cliffs, beaches and falling water. Flat on the map. Not in a headwind.
On the coast, the rule is simple: stop the wind, release the heat.
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Endur Training LS Jersey. The foundation. Light, stretchy fabric moves sweat on long efforts. Four back pockets carry food, phone and a packed shell.
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Endur Light Wind Jacket. On, off, on again. Windproof and water-repellent at the front, mesh at the back to dump heat on the climbs. Packs into a jersey pocket.
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Endur Cargo Bib Shorts C3. Made for gravel and long hours in the saddle. Infinity C3 pad for comfort, mesh straps for airflow, an open leg pocket for fuel on the move.
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SubZ Leg Warmers. Cold start, warm finish. On at camp, off by noon. Silicone grippers hold them in place; a brushed inside holds the warmth.
The upside of two wheels: rolling past the queue of cars at every viewpoint. Parking: zero krónur.
The Highlands: four seasons in one hour
3 days · 150 km · 1,600 m of climbing · one extra day on foot
At Vík, they restocked and turned inland onto the F208. Gravel and sand only from here, climbing toward the Mýrdalsjökull glacier and the Bláhnjúkur peaks. Fully loaded, they walked the bikes up more than once. Hail, frost, wind, blue sky. Sometimes within the hour.
This is where kit becomes a system. Layers you add or shed in a minute, without losing momentum.
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Bike SubZ LS Jersey 2. Warmth that breathes. Heavy jersey fabric with a brushed, grid-structured lining traps heat and still vents on the climbs. Over wool, it takes on near-freezing mornings.
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Bike SubZ Bib Tights C2. Full coverage for the coldest days. Brushed inside for warmth, perforated at the back for airflow, zipped at the ankles for easy on and off. Infinity C2 pad for long, hard days.
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Everyday Hydro Jacket. The storm layer. Two-layer waterproof fabric (10,000 mm), taped seams, side vents and a hood that fits over a helmet. Hail stays out. Heat gets out.
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CORE Endur Hydro Pants. For when the sky opens. Wind and waterproof over shorts or tights, with a reinforced seat and reflective ankle straps that keep fabric clear of the chain. https://craftsports.ca/collections/hydro-cycling
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ADV SubZ Siberian Gloves. Cold hands end trips. Wind and waterproof shell, fleece lining, silicone palm for grip on rough descents.
They chose wild camping over the few campsites: more freedom, more silence. Check local conservation rules, pick your spot with care, leave no trace. The payoff: a sunset that held the horizon for hours
Some places ask you to slow down further. At Ófærufoss, they left the bikes and hiked into the Eldgjá canyon. At Landmannalaugar, beneath multicoloured mountains, they stayed an extra night for a longer hike and the natural hot springs.
At camp: the layer closest to you
Ten days. No hot showers. Damp kit, cold nights, one sleeping bag. Out here, the layer against your skin decides how you sleep, and how you ride tomorrow.
That's why Alexe packs wool.
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Wool Comfort Pant and Wool Comfort RN LS. One set for camp, sleep and the coldest starts. Merino outside to insulate, polyester inside to move moisture. Warm when damp. Odour-resistant on day eight, with no laundry in sight.
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Wool Seamless Bra. From first light to sleeping bag. Seamless, so nothing rubs under a loaded jersey.
Her advice for multi-day trips: keep one dry wool set for camp only. Change the moment you stop. Back into riding kit in the morning, however cold it feels.
The Golden Circle: back on pavement
3 days · 200 km · 1,300 m of climbing
After days of reading every rock, smooth asphalt felt like a holiday. Speed came back. So did the lighter setup: training jersey, cargo bibs, leg warmers, wind jacket in the pocket.
Strokkur geyser. Brúarfoss. Þingvellir National Park, where the European and North American plates pull apart. The last night under canvas was among Þingvellir's canyons, 50 km from Reykjavik. Then Flúðabakarí, and the best cinnamon bun of their lives.
And then, the city. Cafés, bookshops and live music after days of sheep, horses and silence.
One lesson learned: don't ride back to the airport. The road turns into a busy highway. Book a hotel with a shuttle.
Ride it slow
Ten days later: questionable smell, worn kit, and smiles that wouldn't quit. Pride, memories, and quiet relief at the thought of a real bed.
That's what gear is for. Not to be noticed. To keep you moving long enough to see what you came for.
Here's to the slow road. And the next loop.
Pack like Alexe
Ten days. 700 km. One carefully chosen kit. Get Alexe's Iceland bikepacking clothing checklist and see the layers that kept her moving through wind, rain and everything in between.
